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Harking back to an era of jetsetters, socialites and movie legends, Paris ...
France’s credit rating may have sunk, and big brains may have gathered in Davos to discuss the issues with capitalism – but in the couture houses of Paris last week, it seemed no one had received the memo. Except, maybe, Maison Martin Margiela, whose spring/summer “Artisanal” presentation – their version of couture, featuring unexpected materials and their trademark alchemical upcycling – seemed like a case study for the Swiss forum. Nineteenth- and 20th-century embroidered table linen became graceful wrap dresses and the foil from champagne corks made a great metallic trench but elsewhere, well – cutbacks? There were some cut-out backs but mostly, there was more: more skirt, more beading, more corsetry.
Instead of seeming like an act of defiance in the face of uncertainty and economic pain, the way Dior’s extravagant New Look did after the deprivations of the second world war, all this muchness seemed, rather, like a remembrance of things past. Literally so, in the case of Dior, where designer Bill Gaytten decided simply to go back to the archives for his show of New Look shirt-dresses in sheer organza, tucked and curvy cocktail sheaths, and billowing ballgowns. The result was a black-and-white sketch of the house’s former self.
